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What did tourists really come to see (or expect to see) in Berlin during the 1990s? Was it the spectacle of a divided Cold War city before it disappeared, like a transient open air museum, and former tyrant's tomb? Was it the spectre of economic renewal at Potsdamerplatz, like another Glasgow or a Sheffield? Was the attraction the transformation of a decaying, under utilised city turning into a buzzing revitalised cosmopolitan metropolis, a busy thoroughfare, a freeway for ideas, hopes, and dreams? And what about the empty space? Did anyone come for that?