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It was not consumer goods or capitalist shopfronts that Berliners longed to shut out. History has given Berlin an unusual legacy, though it is not a legacy that the City remembers loudly, or proudly, even today. As a visit to the Kaiser Wilhelm Gadachtniskerche highlights, its a history of shame and darkness that renders those aware of the fullness and depth of its meaning to silence and, perhaps even, despair. The celebrated graffiti along the Western side of the Berlin Wall were another 'silent' rejection of totalitarianism.